A quick read of this Businessweek article reveals much about the mentality of today's outdated, out of touch "leaders". Viewed as a serious threat to their raping and pillaging, Ron Paul has become, again, the whipping post for the power's that be, or more appropriately, the powers that WERE and who still, for some reason, think ARE.
The article starts off with the story of retiring Senator Judd Gregg, the current chairman of the House Financial Service Committee’s Subcommittee on Domestic Monetary Policy and Technology, handing out Ron Paul's End the Fed, at a central bank meeting in November. The book, which outlines a return to the gold standard, among other things, debuted on the New York Times non-fiction best seller list at #6 and ranked at least as high as #18 on the Amazon books best seller list. Gregg supposedly told those in attendance of the meeting that it'd be worth finding out what Ron Paul, next in line to take chairman of the subcommittee, has planned for them.
You see, they KNOW we're coming for them. They KNOW we've had enough of them inflating the middle class into poverty while lining the pockets of their elitist cronies. They KNOW we're looking to fix the mess they've made by, first and foremost, exposing them and their ilk for the sociopathic criminals they truly are.
This will lead to stripping the big government incumbents and the Federal Reserve fraudsters, the investment banksters and the too-big-to-fail corporate jackasses, of all their self-assumed power. Eventually, it will lead to the greatest accomplishment of modern times - a global revolution where the shadow government, illuminati freaks are imprisoned for their crimes against humanity.
Let's be clear here, I voted for Ron Paul in the 2008 Primary. I wanted this guy in. I can be quoted as saying then that "if Ron Paul doesn't win this thing, we wont achieve freedom again until there's blood in the streets."
Obviously, he didn't win. He didn't even win the republican nomination. What's followed has been a steady decline into tyrannical "Big Sis" government and a full-on Nazi-esque police state mentality. We have, at this point, no real chance of fighting this thing off without a true uprising of the people.
The "Tea Party" movement, which I have viewed with a heaping dose of skepticism since it was hijacked by those looking to make a fast buck, still does have the underlying spirit of the movement intact. The recent ousting of incumbent Democrats and neo-con Republicans has put the elitists on edge, and for good reason. Republicans and Democrats alike know that time is up and they have to start listening to their constituents. If they don't, they're not only done for politically, they risk a civil uprising or even a civil war.
So what are they doing about it? The same thing they always do! They're distracting everyone with more BS as they keep doing what they've been doing! But this time they're scared. They're scrambling to make things happen before it's too late. They know their smoke and mirrors tactics don't get them very far anymore, and pony shows have almost no effect on the people who have already woken up.
The incoming House Speaker, Republican John Boehner, has already been reported to be discussing ways to keep Ron Paul from becoming the chairman of the subcommittee...you know, to keep him from exposing the fraud and criminal activity of our elected leaders and the banksters. He's doing this secretly and quietly, trying to not raise any alarm bells. Too bad, Boehner - you're on candid camera now.
According to The Daily Paul, if they DO pass him over at the vote next week, the full House of Representatives will have to ratify the chairman's appointment. If that happens, the phone campaign will begin. Don't miss out on that one, should it arise.
What I need to say about all of this, however, is that EVEN IF Ron Paul gets the chairman seat for the subcommittee, the ball that is the complete lock down of the US population is already rolling. We have not only an uphill battle on our hands, in getting our freedoms back, but a battle in which we're heavily out-gunned and certainly out-numbered. For every one true patriot in this country, there are dozens of pathological thieves who want nothing more than their monthly "poor me" welfare checks and GMO foodstamps. These mindless zombies will do anything to protect their entitlements.
Those on the front-lines of this battle will be the first to go. They'll be locked up in FEMA camps and labeled "domestic terrorists".
We're coming into a time when things are going to get very scary in this country. VERY scary. All I can say is, it's about damned time.
12.04.2010
RV Heating and Cooling, or How I Learned To Stop Worrying and Use a Multimeter
Look, I'm no tech wiz. I've learned along the way to do a bit of electrical and mechanical work myself, but when it comes right down to it, I'm usually afraid to even touch things like "complicated" heating and cooling systems. I mean, the little experience I have with things like replacing starters, water pumps or head gaskets in cars, or wiring up a new electrical outlet, new thermostat, etc - these things are small potatoes when you start thinking about the dangers of working with a live AC unit or something that burns propane. The dangers there are real - explosions, electrocutions, or worse.
In 2009, just as the New Hampshire winter was setting in, my furnace decided to quit on me. The thermostat said "turn on" but the furnace did nothing. I tore apart my couch, pulled the furnace out and started applying low amperage 12 volt to various things that looked like they should take it. Of course, this produced no results. I decided the blower motor must be dead and gave up. I spent a few months running an electric heater to keep warm and quickly found my pipes freezing up.
In December, I picked up and moved to Florida. Problem solved - don't actually need a furnace there.
While in Florida, however, my AC unit decided to quit on me just as the summer heat set in. Thankfully, a long-time family friend was staying in the same campground. He, having been an HVAC specialist a good portion of his life and even teaching classes at a college for it, knew a little something about what to look at and how to test it. He brought over his multimeter and started poking at things with what appeared to be little fear of electrocution. His determination was that the "running capacitor" was shot. I pulled it and ran down the street to get a new one but, after they tested it and said it was fine, I decided that rather than bother him to come over and keep testing for me, I'd get my own hands dirty and bought myself a multimeter.
Best tool investment I've ever made.
I tested this and that. After a few minutes of poking the probes at different terminals, I found that the problem was definitely BEFORE the capacitor, not in it. No voltage ever made it to the capacitor when the thermostat said "turn on". After scouring the internet for info on how an RV air conditioner works, I found myself probing the control board. Lo and Behold - it was a simple relay switch in the control board. $80 and 2 weeks later, I had a working AC again. Thank God as my interior temps were soaring to 100*F almost every day!
This taught me a valuable lesson - if you expect to have a shot at fixing things in your rig, you not only NEED a multimeter, you simply CAN'T be afraid to use it. A multimeter allows you to test for three things that will almost always narrow down the problem - voltage (both VAC and VDC), amperage and resistance (ohms). 9 times out of 10, simply testing for voltage at some connection point will tell you exactly where the problem is.
After moving here to Albuquerque, I knew I had to try to fix my furnace. Winter was coming and temps were already dropping to the upper 30s at night. Since I had found the problem with the AC and replaced a cheap part rather than the whole unit, my optimism was up and I was pretty sure I could find the problem. Firstly, let's outline the basics of how a standard RV heating system works so you can follow along.
1 - The Thermostat:
When the thermostat registers an interior temperature cooler than the requested temperature, it sends DC voltage to the furnace. When it registers warmer than the requested temperature, it stops sending that voltage. It's that simple.
2 - The Furnace On/Off Switch:
I'm not sure if all furnaces have this, but my Suburban does. Two wires come from the thermostat, and one goes through a simple on/off rocker switch. When off or malfunctioning, the voltage from the thermostat will go no further than this switch.
3 - The "Time Delay Relay" / aka "Klixon" Relay:
This relay controls the running of the blower motor itself, turning it on and off based on the DC voltage signal from the thermostat. It allows 12VDC to run from your main house battery/converter to the blower motor when the thermostat is sending a signal, then will actually wait a certain number of seconds before stopping that 12VDC when the thermostat has stopped sending voltage.
4 - The "Sail Switch":
This switch is mounted on the side of the blower motor, with a "sail" piece inside the blower motor itself. It simply monitors the operation of the blower motor. When the blower motor turns on and starts blowing air, the "sail" part of the switch gets blown in a certain direction and the switch turns on, allowing the voltage from the thermostat to flow to the control board. If the blower motor doesn't turn on, or isn't blowing the air strongly enough, the sail never gets pushed to the "on" position, preventing the burner from ever starting.
5 - The Control Board:
This is where all the rest of the magic happens - opening the "orifice" to allow propane into the burning chamber, ignition of that gas, overheat monitoring, etc. I wont go into details because, well, I don't know the details.
Very, VERY simple system, at least compared to what I expected. So how did I test mine?
Firstly, I made sure there was voltage coming from the thermostat. I turned on the heat so the thermostat would tell the furnace to turn on, then I took the multimeter and put the black/negative probe on the 12VDC ground wire and the red/positive probe on the wire coming from the thermostat. Yep - got voltage. That means the thermostat is fine and there's no break in the wire between it and the furnace. Next, I checked to see if the on/off switch was working correctly by doing the same thing, but putting the red/positive probe on the connection to the relay switch, which is the next connection point after the point I was testing. Yep - I got the same voltage there, so that's fine. Then I checked to see if there's 12VDC running to the relay. I put the positive probe on the relay terminal and registered a clean and steady 13.1VDC. When I checked to see if the 12VDC was coming out the opposite terminal, however, I got nothing. Looks like the relay's dead.
I ordered a new relay from the internet (less than $20) and installed it. Turned on the thermostat and on pops the motor. Good. Fixed everything for $20. A new furnace, which I was convinced I would have to buy back in New Hampshire, would have cost over $250.
Moral of the story? Buy a multimeter and learn how to use it, then learn about how RV heating and cooling systems work, especially the ones in your rig. They're much more simple than we realize, and they're often VERY easy, and very CHEAP, to repair.
Afterall, when you're RVing these days, you've gotta save EVERY PENNY you can.
In 2009, just as the New Hampshire winter was setting in, my furnace decided to quit on me. The thermostat said "turn on" but the furnace did nothing. I tore apart my couch, pulled the furnace out and started applying low amperage 12 volt to various things that looked like they should take it. Of course, this produced no results. I decided the blower motor must be dead and gave up. I spent a few months running an electric heater to keep warm and quickly found my pipes freezing up.
In December, I picked up and moved to Florida. Problem solved - don't actually need a furnace there.
While in Florida, however, my AC unit decided to quit on me just as the summer heat set in. Thankfully, a long-time family friend was staying in the same campground. He, having been an HVAC specialist a good portion of his life and even teaching classes at a college for it, knew a little something about what to look at and how to test it. He brought over his multimeter and started poking at things with what appeared to be little fear of electrocution. His determination was that the "running capacitor" was shot. I pulled it and ran down the street to get a new one but, after they tested it and said it was fine, I decided that rather than bother him to come over and keep testing for me, I'd get my own hands dirty and bought myself a multimeter.
Best tool investment I've ever made.
I tested this and that. After a few minutes of poking the probes at different terminals, I found that the problem was definitely BEFORE the capacitor, not in it. No voltage ever made it to the capacitor when the thermostat said "turn on". After scouring the internet for info on how an RV air conditioner works, I found myself probing the control board. Lo and Behold - it was a simple relay switch in the control board. $80 and 2 weeks later, I had a working AC again. Thank God as my interior temps were soaring to 100*F almost every day!
This taught me a valuable lesson - if you expect to have a shot at fixing things in your rig, you not only NEED a multimeter, you simply CAN'T be afraid to use it. A multimeter allows you to test for three things that will almost always narrow down the problem - voltage (both VAC and VDC), amperage and resistance (ohms). 9 times out of 10, simply testing for voltage at some connection point will tell you exactly where the problem is.
After moving here to Albuquerque, I knew I had to try to fix my furnace. Winter was coming and temps were already dropping to the upper 30s at night. Since I had found the problem with the AC and replaced a cheap part rather than the whole unit, my optimism was up and I was pretty sure I could find the problem. Firstly, let's outline the basics of how a standard RV heating system works so you can follow along.
1 - The Thermostat:
When the thermostat registers an interior temperature cooler than the requested temperature, it sends DC voltage to the furnace. When it registers warmer than the requested temperature, it stops sending that voltage. It's that simple.
2 - The Furnace On/Off Switch:
I'm not sure if all furnaces have this, but my Suburban does. Two wires come from the thermostat, and one goes through a simple on/off rocker switch. When off or malfunctioning, the voltage from the thermostat will go no further than this switch.
3 - The "Time Delay Relay" / aka "Klixon" Relay:
This relay controls the running of the blower motor itself, turning it on and off based on the DC voltage signal from the thermostat. It allows 12VDC to run from your main house battery/converter to the blower motor when the thermostat is sending a signal, then will actually wait a certain number of seconds before stopping that 12VDC when the thermostat has stopped sending voltage.
4 - The "Sail Switch":
This switch is mounted on the side of the blower motor, with a "sail" piece inside the blower motor itself. It simply monitors the operation of the blower motor. When the blower motor turns on and starts blowing air, the "sail" part of the switch gets blown in a certain direction and the switch turns on, allowing the voltage from the thermostat to flow to the control board. If the blower motor doesn't turn on, or isn't blowing the air strongly enough, the sail never gets pushed to the "on" position, preventing the burner from ever starting.
5 - The Control Board:
This is where all the rest of the magic happens - opening the "orifice" to allow propane into the burning chamber, ignition of that gas, overheat monitoring, etc. I wont go into details because, well, I don't know the details.
Very, VERY simple system, at least compared to what I expected. So how did I test mine?
Firstly, I made sure there was voltage coming from the thermostat. I turned on the heat so the thermostat would tell the furnace to turn on, then I took the multimeter and put the black/negative probe on the 12VDC ground wire and the red/positive probe on the wire coming from the thermostat. Yep - got voltage. That means the thermostat is fine and there's no break in the wire between it and the furnace. Next, I checked to see if the on/off switch was working correctly by doing the same thing, but putting the red/positive probe on the connection to the relay switch, which is the next connection point after the point I was testing. Yep - I got the same voltage there, so that's fine. Then I checked to see if there's 12VDC running to the relay. I put the positive probe on the relay terminal and registered a clean and steady 13.1VDC. When I checked to see if the 12VDC was coming out the opposite terminal, however, I got nothing. Looks like the relay's dead.
I ordered a new relay from the internet (less than $20) and installed it. Turned on the thermostat and on pops the motor. Good. Fixed everything for $20. A new furnace, which I was convinced I would have to buy back in New Hampshire, would have cost over $250.
Moral of the story? Buy a multimeter and learn how to use it, then learn about how RV heating and cooling systems work, especially the ones in your rig. They're much more simple than we realize, and they're often VERY easy, and very CHEAP, to repair.
Afterall, when you're RVing these days, you've gotta save EVERY PENNY you can.
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